---
title: "Cooktop element repair cost"
description: "Kenmore cooktop element repair cost: a radiant element or the infinite switch that feeds it — both accessible and both inexpensive."
url: "https://kenmoremiami.support/repair-cost/cooktop-element-repair-cost/"
date_modified: "2026-09-01"
Appliance type: "Cooktops, Ranges"
---


# Kenmore cooktop element repair cost

### The two components behind almost every complaint

A radiant zone is an element and a switch that cycles it. A dead zone is usually the element; a zone with no control over its heat is usually the switch. Both are inexpensive parts on every company behind this badge, and both are reachable once the surface is up. That is why this figure sits where it does rather than up with the induction repairs.

### What is not repairable

The glass. A crack, a chip at an edge or an impact mark is a replacement, and on this catalog the replacement surface is often a large fraction of the cost of a new cooktop. Publishing that plainly is more useful than quoting a repair that nobody should buy.

### Lifting the surface

On a radiant top everything happens under the glass, and getting it up and back without stressing it is the skilled part of an otherwise ordinary job. It is also why this is not a repair to attempt with a video and a screwdriver: the part is cheap and the surface above it is not.

What moves this figure

from $155, element or switch

Both are inexpensive, accessible parts

Cracked glass is not a repair

Element or infinite switch

A zone that does nothing may have a failed element or a failed switch, and they cost different amounts. A zone that is stuck on full is almost always the switch.

Radiant or coil

Older coil-element ranges and modern radiant tops under glass are different work. The coil is a plug-in component; the radiant element is under the glass.

Whether the glass has to come up

On a radiant top the surface lifts to reach anything, and doing that without stressing the glass is the careful part of the job.

Which company built it

Frigidaire lineage on 790 and 970, GE on 362. Their element assemblies and switch bodies differ, and the cross-reference matters on anything discontinued.

Whether the glass is cracked

Then this is not the repair. A cracked ceramic surface is a safety matter and a replacement question, and we will say so rather than work around it.

The two components behind almost every complaint

A radiant zone is an element and a switch that cycles it. A dead zone is usually the element; a zone with no control over its heat is usually the switch. Both are inexpensive parts on every company behind this badge, and both are reachable once the surface is up. That is why this figure sits where it does rather than up with the induction repairs.

What is not repairable

The glass. A crack, a chip at an edge or an impact mark is a replacement, and on this catalog the replacement surface is often a large fraction of the cost of a new cooktop. Publishing that plainly is more useful than quoting a repair that nobody should buy.

Lifting the surface

On a radiant top everything happens under the glass, and getting it up and back without stressing it is the skilled part of an otherwise ordinary job. It is also why this is not a repair to attempt with a video and a screwdriver: the part is cheap and the surface above it is not.

### One zone stays on full whatever I set it to.

That is the infinite switch almost every time. The element is doing exactly what it is told; the thing doing the telling has stuck.

### Can a cracked glass top be repaired?

No. It can be replaced, and on a mid-market cooktop the price of the glass frequently approaches the price of the appliance. That is a straight conversation rather than a repair.

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