---
title: "Surface igniter replacement cost"
description: "Kenmore surface igniter replacement cost — a modest part, and a meaningful share of these calls end at a seated cap or a blocked port with no part at all."
url: "https://kenmoremiami.support/repair-cost/surface-igniter-replacement-cost/"
date_modified: "2026-09-01"
Appliance type: "Cooktops, Ranges"
---


# Kenmore surface igniter replacement cost

### The free checks, published before the figure

Lift each cap and set it back squarely. Look at the ports for anything that has boiled over into them and clear them. Dry the whole assembly if anything has been spilled or if the cooktop has recently been washed. Those three things resolve a genuine share of the burners we are called out to, and none of them costs anything. We would rather publish that than take the call.

### When it is the component

An igniter that has cracked or an electrode that has lost its gap will not spark reliably however clean the burner is. On a gas appliance that is licensed work, both because of the connection and because the sequence has to be verified afterwards. The part itself is modest on every company behind this badge.

### Spark module versus igniter

If every burner clicks and none lights, or if the clicking never stops, the module or the harness is a stronger candidate than four igniters failing simultaneously. That distinction is made on the visit and it changes what gets replaced.

What moves this figure

from $165, and often nothing is broken

Caps, ports and moisture checked first

Gas work by a licensed technician

Whether the burner is simply blocked

A boil-over that has filled the ports, or a cap sitting slightly off its seat, produces a burner that clicks and will not light. Both are free to correct and both are common.

Whether it is one burner or all of them

One burner points at that burner. All of them clicking continuously points at the spark module or at moisture across the assembly, which is a different repair.

Whether moisture is the cause

A spilled pan or a recently cleaned cooktop can leave enough moisture to make every igniter chatter. Drying it out is sometimes the whole fix, and it is worth trying before booking anybody.

Which builder's assembly it is

790 and 970 are Frigidaire lineage, 362 is GE and 911 is Roper. The igniter and electrode designs differ and so do the routes to them.

Whether the valve is involved

A burner that sparks properly and still will not light may not be getting gas, and that is a valve question rather than an igniter one.

The free checks, published before the figure

Lift each cap and set it back squarely. Look at the ports for anything that has boiled over into them and clear them. Dry the whole assembly if anything has been spilled or if the cooktop has recently been washed. Those three things resolve a genuine share of the burners we are called out to, and none of them costs anything. We would rather publish that than take the call.

When it is the component

An igniter that has cracked or an electrode that has lost its gap will not spark reliably however clean the burner is. On a gas appliance that is licensed work, both because of the connection and because the sequence has to be verified afterwards. The part itself is modest on every company behind this badge.

Spark module versus igniter

If every burner clicks and none lights, or if the clicking never stops, the module or the harness is a stronger candidate than four igniters failing simultaneously. That distinction is made on the visit and it changes what gets replaced.

### It clicks constantly, even when off.

That is usually moisture or a cap out of position rather than a failed part. Dry everything thoroughly, reseat every cap, and see whether it stops before you book.

### One burner lights and the others do not.

Then the spark module is working. Look at that burner's cap and ports first, because a single dead burner with the others healthy is very often mechanical rather than electrical.

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