--- title: "One cooktop burner not working" description: "Kenmore one cooktop burner not working — good news, usually. A single dead zone points at that zone rather than at anything the whole cooktop shares, and on…" url: "https://kenmoremiami.support/symptoms/cooktop-burner-not-working/" date_modified: "2026-09-01" Appliance type: "Cooktops, Ranges" --- # Kenmore one cooktop burner not working ### On gas, take the cap off and dry it A burner that clicks and clicks without lighting is telling you the spark system is alive and working. Lift the cap and the head off, make sure both are dry and seated square, and clear the port with a pin. That sequence resolves a genuine share of these calls and it needs no parts and no visit. ### What it usually means, by the company that built it Kenmore manufactures nothing, so the same behavior points at different things depending on who made the appliance. The three digits before the period on the rating plate are what tells them apart. - **790 Frigidaire** — A dash in the display means the cooktop is locked, and Frigidaire's own instruction is to press OFF and hold for six seconds. F40 and F41 are their cooktop lock-out codes. Both are settings rather than failures. - **911 Roper** — No published codes; diagnosed at the appliance. - **665 Whirlpool** — A handful of Whirlpool-built cooking appliances carry this prefix. Whirlpool publishes no cooktop code table. ### Three cooktops that share only a cut-out Gas is mechanical, radiant electric is elements and switches, and induction is power electronics under a glass lid. They fail in different places and are diagnosed with different tools. The one thing they have in common is that a single dead zone almost never points at the part they all share. ### The lock, and why it is on this page Because it produces a cooktop that appears completely dead and is completely fine, and because both the range and the cooktop can be locked independently on some of these. Frigidaire publishes it as a dash in the display; it is not a code and nothing is broken, and it accounts for calls that need not have been made. The burner cap is wet or misaligned After a boil-over or a clean. Free to fix and very common. A blocked port Cleared with a pin rather than drilled. The igniter for that burner Where the cap and port are right and it still will not light. The radiant element or its switch On an electric cooktop. A zone that works on high and not on low is the switch. The zone coil or its driver On induction. One zone out points here rather than at the main board. The cooktop is locked A setting, and it looks exactly like a failure. Do the other zones work If yes, this is that zone's own parts. Is the cooktop locked A dash in the display, or a lock icon. Six seconds on OFF clears it on a Frigidaire. On gas: does it click Clicking means spark. No clicking on that burner alone is the switch or the electrode. Look at the glass Any crack means stop using it. On a radiant or induction top that is an electrical risk rather than a cosmetic one. The others are fine and this one is dead What it usually means One zone dead is rarely a shared part On gas it is usually seating or a port Cracked glass is a stop, not a repair On gas, take the cap off and dry it A burner that clicks and clicks without lighting is telling you the spark system is alive and working. Lift the cap and the head off, make sure both are dry and seated square, and clear the port with a pin. That sequence resolves a genuine share of these calls and it needs no parts and no visit. What it usually means, by the company that built it Kenmore manufactures nothing, so the same behavior points at different things depending on who made the appliance. The three digits before the period on the rating plate are what tells them apart. 790 Frigidaire — A dash in the display means the cooktop is locked, and Frigidaire's own instruction is to press OFF and hold for six seconds. F40 and F41 are their cooktop lock-out codes. Both are settings rather than failures. 911 Roper — No published codes; diagnosed at the appliance. 665 Whirlpool — A handful of Whirlpool-built cooking appliances carry this prefix. Whirlpool publishes no cooktop code table. Three cooktops that share only a cut-out Gas is mechanical, radiant electric is elements and switches, and induction is power electronics under a glass lid. They fail in different places and are diagnosed with different tools. The one thing they have in common is that a single dead zone almost never points at the part they all share. The lock, and why it is on this page Because it produces a cooktop that appears completely dead and is completely fine, and because both the range and the cooktop can be locked independently on some of these. Frigidaire publishes it as a dash in the display; it is not a code and nothing is broken, and it accounts for calls that need not have been made. ### It clicks constantly, even when nothing is on. That is usually a switch stuck or moisture in the spark module, and it is worth acting on — it is annoying rather than dangerous, but it does not fix itself. ### The glass is cracked. Can it be replaced? Sometimes, and it depends entirely on whether the glass is still made for that model. On an older cooktop it often is not, and we will say so rather than take a fee to find out slowly. --- **[Read full article: One cooktop burner not working](https://kenmoremiami.support/symptoms/cooktop-burner-not-working/)**