Every part on a Kenmore is catalogued by the company that built it, under that company’s own number. On a current appliance that is a lookup. On a discontinued one it is the difference between a repair that can happen and one that cannot, because a number that returns nothing has very often simply been superseded twice. We follow that chain and tell you plainly when a part is genuinely gone, rather than taking a deposit and finding out slowly.
33 jobs · 10 appliances
Kenmore repair in Miami, starting from who actually built it.
Kenmore manufactures nothing. Whirlpool, LG, Frigidaire, GE, Broan, Roper and Bosch built the appliances wearing this badge, and the first three digits of the model number say which. That decides the parts, the diagnostic sequence and whether there is a code table to read at all. That is why we ask for it before anything else, and why it opens every page on this site.
- 33 jobs with a published figure
- 10 appliance types we cover
- 7 manufacturers behind one badge
- from $95 diagnostic, credited to the repair
Start from the job
The work in each job, and the floor it starts from
Treat each number as a floor rather than a quote: it reflects what this equipment and this labor go for in South Florida. Exact cost is confirmed after an on-site diagnostic, and you agree to it in writing before a panel comes off.
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from $95 Diagnostic visit
Nobody names a part on this site until somebody has measured something. On this badge the visit starts one step earlier than it does on most makes: with the model number, because the first three digits tell us which manufacturer built the appliance and therefore which service documentation, which diagnostic sequence and which parts catalog apply. Arriving without that is guessing at three appliances at once.
- The prefix read first, then the appliance
- What it reports, measured rather than assumed
- Credited toward the repair when you go ahead
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from $95 OEM cross reference and parts sourcing
The job that only exists on a badge-engineered appliance. A Kenmore part number is not the part number the factory used, and on a discontinued unit the difference decides whether the repair is possible at all. We cross-reference the Kenmore number to the builder's own number and tell you plainly whether the part is current, superseded or gone.
- The builder's part number, not the badge's
- Superseded numbers traced rather than guessed
- An honest answer when a part no longer exists
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from $125 Appliance maintenance
Scheduled work in one visit rather than an emergency in three months. Condenser coils, door seals, filters, the dryer duct and the dishwasher drain path — the things that fail quietly here and take a component with them when they do. In this climate this is the service that changes the arithmetic most.
- Coils, seals, filters and the duct in one visit
- Priced below a diagnosis plus the repair it prevents
- The interval that suits South Florida rather than the manual
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from $145 Appliance installation
Connection, leveling and a working test, done so the appliance does not spend its life fighting its installation. Half the calls we take about a new appliance are about how it went in: a drain hose without a high loop, a dryer vent crushed behind the machine, a refrigerator with no clearance at the back.
- Leveled and tested rather than plugged in
- Gas and stacked installations quoted on the job
- The install decides how the appliance ages
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from $155 Refrigerator not cooling repair
The most common call there is, and the one most often quoted as a sealed system when it is not. The order of investigation depends on who built the cabinet, which is why we ask for the prefix first — a Whirlpool-built 106 and an LG-built 795 arrive at this symptom by different routes and report it differently.
- Nothing gets named until the setting and the airflow are ruled out
- The route depends on the builder, and we read it first
- Sealed system last, because it is last in reality
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from $175 Defrost system repair
A refrigerator that warms up over days while the freezer stays cold is usually a defrost story, and in this climate it is a common one: every time a tired door seal lets damp air in, the evaporator has more ice to clear and the circuit has more work than it was sized for.
- Heater, thermostat and control tested as a circuit
- The seal checked in the same visit, or it comes back
- Ice that returns is the symptom, not the cause
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from $155 Ice maker repair
The ice maker inside a refrigerator, which stops for cheaper reasons than most people assume. Production depends on freezer temperature. An ice maker that has slowed is very often reporting a freezer that has crept warm, and correcting that is a smaller and cheaper job than fitting a module.
- Freezer temperature before the module
- Water supply before the mechanism
- The module replaced when the module is the answer
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from $115 Water dispenser and filter service
Slow water, no water, or a dispenser that has started dribbling. Cartridges here give up sooner than the calendar on the box suggests, and a good number of these calls finish with a fresh filter and a flushed line rather than a component.
- The filter and the line before the valve
- Local water shortens every published interval
- The line inside the door checked, not assumed
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from $125 Condenser cleaning service
The cheapest work on this site and the work that prevents the most expensive. Dust, pet hair and salt air settle on a condenser here until it can no longer give up its heat, and from then on the compressor buys the same cold with more running time — until something in the circuit stops paying.
- Prevents the repair that costs ten times as much
- Salt air and humidity make this a shorter interval here
- Run time measured before and after
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from $155 Temperature sensor replacement
The component that fails without looking like anything. A sensor that reports the wrong number makes an appliance hold a temperature it is not at, confidently and without complaint — a refrigerator that is warm while the display says it is cold, or an oven that is consistently twenty-five degrees out.
- Measured against a reference, not against the display
- A consistent offset is its signature
- Cheap to replace and easy to misdiagnose
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from $595 Sealed system repair
Compressor, condenser, evaporator and the refrigerant between them. It is real, it is the most expensive repair on a refrigerator, and it is quoted far more often than it happens. Everything cheaper is ruled out first, and on a mass-market cabinet we will tell you honestly when the repair no longer makes sense against the price of the appliance.
- Ruled in by measurement, never by elimination alone
- Licensed refrigerant work
- An honest replace-instead conversation where it applies
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from $155 Ice machine cleaning and descaling
The service that keeps a standalone ice machine alive in South Florida. Mineral collects on exactly the surfaces the machine depends on, output falls month by month without the machine ever stopping, and the interval printed in the manual assumes gentler water than we have.
- Output measured before and after
- The maker's own cleaner, on the maker's own cycle
- The cheapest service here and the most preventive
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from $145 Door seal replacement
A gasket that has hardened, torn or stopped pulling the door shut. In a humid house this is not cosmetic: every hour a refrigerator seal leaks is an hour the defrost circuit spends clearing ice it should never have made, and on a front-load washer a tired gasket is where the smell complaints begin.
- Tested with paper rather than judged by eye
- The hinge and the alignment checked with it
- A seal is preventive work on this coast
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from $145 Dishwasher drain repair
Standing water after a completed cycle. On a Whirlpool-built 665 this frequently arrives with a code on the display, and read against Whirlpool's own table it points at the drain path rather than at the pump — which is the difference between a filter clean and a part.
- The disposer plug checked before anything is opened
- The code read against the builder's own table
- The pump last, because it is usually not the pump
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from $225 Dishwasher pump replacement
Where the drain pump or the wash pump has genuinely failed rather than been blocked. The two do different jobs and produce different complaints — one leaves water behind, the other leaves dishes dirty — and telling them apart before ordering is most of the value here.
- Wash and drain pumps are different failures
- Blockage ruled out before a part is named
- The builder's own part number, sourced properly
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from $125 Dishwasher wash performance service
Dishes coming out gritty, filmed or still wet. A large share of these are water, detergent and loading rather than the machine — and on South Florida water the film complaint in particular is usually chemistry rather than a component.
- Water temperature measured at the machine
- Spray arms and filter before any part
- Hard water addressed as hard water
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from $135 Dishwasher door latch repair
A dishwasher that will not start, or that stops partway through, when the real problem is that the machine cannot confirm its door is shut. The latch and its switch are cheap and they fail far more often than a control board does.
- The commonest cause of a dishwasher that will not start
- Switch tested rather than the board blamed
- The door alignment checked in the same visit
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from $175 Washer drain pump replacement
A drum full of water at the end of a cycle. What the machine tells you about it depends entirely on who built it: an LG-built 796 usually names a drain problem on the display, while a Whirlpool-built 110 of the same age may simply stop. Same repair, two very different phone calls.
- The coin trap and the hose before the pump
- What the display said, read against the right table
- Both builders handled, and they are not alike
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from $185 Washer spin and drive repair
A load that comes out soaking, or a machine that fills, washes and then refuses to spin. The cheap answers come first here and they are right most of the time: balance, then the lid or door lock, then the drive.
- Balance and the lock before the drive
- Three builders, three drive systems
- The expensive answers are genuinely last
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from $155 Washer leak repair
Water on the floor, which is rarely where the leak is. We work from where it lands back to where it comes from — the door gasket, the dispenser, the hoses, the tub seal — because a leak diagnosed by the puddle is a leak diagnosed wrong.
- Traced back rather than guessed at
- Fill hoses checked while we are there, every time
- The gasket fold is a local suspect here
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from $145 Washer lock and lid switch repair
A washer that will not start, will not spin, or will not release the door at the end. On every one of the three builders the machine refuses to run rather than risk an open door, so a five-dollar switch stops the whole appliance.
- A small part that stops the entire machine
- Tested electrically rather than by feel
- The door alignment checked with it
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from $119 Dryer vent cleaning
The single most useful thing anybody can do for a dryer here, and the honest answer to a large share of no-heat and long-cycle calls. South Florida vent runs are longer and flatter than the ones these machines were designed around, and they carry damp air that packs lint down rather than blowing it through.
- The answer more often than any part is
- Airflow measured at the outside hood
- Prevents the heat-circuit repair that follows it
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from $175 Dryer heating element replacement
An electric dryer that tumbles without heat. The element or a thermal cut-off is the usual answer — and a cut-off that has opened is very often the vent's doing rather than bad luck, which is why the duct is checked in the same visit rather than in the next one.
- The duct checked in the same visit, always
- Element and cut-offs tested as a circuit
- Electric only — gas is a different job
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from $165 Dryer drum roller and belt repair
A dryer that squeals, thumps, or turns over without the drum moving. The belt, the rollers and the idler wear together and replacing one of the three on its own usually buys a few months.
- Belt rollers and idler replaced as a set
- The noise identified before anything is opened
- Cheap parts and a real amount of labor
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from $185 Gas dryer igniter replacement
A gas dryer that tumbles cold. The igniter, the flame sensor and the gas valve coils are the usual sequence, and they are tested rather than swapped — all three produce the same complaint and only one of them is the answer.
- Igniter flame sensor and coils tested in order
- Gas work done by somebody licensed to do it
- The vent checked here too
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from $165 Oven element replacement
An oven that will not reach temperature, or one that browns the top and never cooks through. A failed bake element often shows it — a blister, a break, a bright spot — and it is one of the few appliance repairs where looking is genuinely diagnostic.
- Usually visible, and always tested as well
- Bake and broil are separate elements
- The sensor ruled out at the same time
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from $145 Oven sensor and calibration service
An oven that is consistently out by a fixed amount, or one that overshoots and undershoots. The first is often a calibration offset the control already provides for; the second is usually the temperature sensor, and calibrating around it only hides it.
- A fixed offset and a drifting one are different problems
- Measured against a reference probe
- Calibration where calibration is the honest answer
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from $175 Oven door lock repair
A door that locked itself during a self-clean cycle and will not release, or one that refuses to lock when it should. The mechanism is easy to damage by forcing, and a forced door turns a modest repair into a larger one.
- Nearly always a self-clean cycle that did not complete
- Do not force it — that is the expensive mistake
- Motor switch and control tested separately
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from $165 Surface igniter replacement
A gas burner that clicks and clicks and will not light. Clicking means the spark system is alive and trying, which rules out a great deal — and it is very often the burner cap seating or a blocked port rather than the igniter at all.
- Cap seating and ports checked first, for free
- Igniter tested rather than assumed
- The gas valve is rarely the answer
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from $155 Cooktop element repair
One radiant zone dead while the others work. That pattern is good news: it points at that element or its switch rather than at anything shared, and both are accessible parts on most of these cooktops.
- One dead zone is rarely a board
- Element and switch tested separately
- Cracked glass is a stop rather than a repair
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from $235 Induction cooktop repair
An induction top that shuts down mid-cook, refuses a pan, or has lost a zone. More of these turn out to be heat and ventilation than electronics — the power stage lives under the glass and is cooled by a fan, and a cabinet that traps warm air makes a healthy cooktop protect itself.
- Ventilation checked before any board
- Pan compatibility is a real answer, not a brush-off
- One dead zone points at that zone's coil or driver
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from $135 Range hood blower and light repair
A hood that has gone quiet, gone loud, or lost its light. These are the simplest appliances in the kitchen and among the most repairable — a blower, a switch, a lamp and a filter — and a large share of the complaints are about the duct rather than the hood.
- Ducted or recirculating settled first
- A greasy impeller before a new motor
- The simplest appliance here and the most repairable
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from $265 Appliance control board repair
The repair we rule in last and quote most carefully. A control board is the most expensive single part on most of these appliances, it is the easiest thing to blame, and on a mass-market unit it is the repair where replacing the appliance sometimes wins. We will say which.
- Ruled in by measurement, never by elimination
- Storm-season damage is a real local cause
- An honest replace-instead answer where it applies
The job no other repair company has on its list
A Kenmore part number is not the number the factory used
OEM cross reference and parts sourcing
The two worth booking before anything breaks
A dryer vent and a condenser clean prevent more than they cost
They are the two cheapest things on this page and they head off the two most expensive. A duct that cannot move air is what opens a dryer’s thermal protection and takes the heating element with it, and South Florida’s long flat vent runs block far sooner than the makers assume. A coil that cannot shed heat makes a compressor buy the same cold with more running time, every day, until something in the sealed system stops paying. Both are priced to be chosen rather than deferred.
Before you book
Three minutes that change the visit
Read the first three digits
- They are the part of the model number before the period on the rating plate.
- 110 and 106 and 665 are Whirlpool, 795 and 796 are LG, 253 and 790 and 587 are Frigidaire, 362 and 363 are GE, 233 is Broan, 911 is Roper, 630 is Bosch.
- It decides the parts on the van and the order of the diagnosis.
Photograph anything on the display
- A code is erased the moment power is cut, and cutting power is often the first thing anybody tries.
- On machines with no display, count the flashes and the pauses — that pattern is the code.
- The same characters mean different things for different manufacturers.
Check what is free
- A dryer that will not dry: feel for airflow at the outside vent hood.
- A dishwasher that will not drain: check the disposer plug was removed.
- A cabinet that has never been cold since delivery: check for a cooling-off or a showroom mode.
By appliance
Every appliance we cover
Each job above attaches to one or more of these. If you would sooner begin with the machine than with the work, begin here.
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French door · side-by-side · top and bottom freezer Refrigerators
The appliance the badge is best known for, and the one where knowing who built it changes the repair most. A Kenmore refrigerator in a South Florida kitchen is a Whirlpool, a Frigidaire or an LG underneath, and the first three digits of the model number say which. That decides the parts, the diagnostic sequence and whether there is a published code table to read at all — so it is the first thing we ask for.
- 106 is Whirlpool, 253 is Frigidaire, 795 is LG
- Ice, water and the defrost circuit are most of the call volume
- The parts catalog is the builder's, not the badge's
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Upright and chest · garage and utility room Freezers
Standalone uprights and chest freezers, most of them Frigidaire-built or Whirlpool-built, and most of them living somewhere hot: a garage, a utility room, a covered porch. That location is half the diagnosis. A freezer asked to hold zero degrees in a garage that reaches ninety-five is working at the edge of what it was designed for, and it fails differently from one in a kitchen.
- 253 is Frigidaire-built, 106 is Whirlpool-built
- Where it lives decides how it fails here
- Manual-defrost chest units have no defrost circuit to blame
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Standalone and undercounter · a machine of its own Ice makers
Standalone and undercounter ice makers, which are a separate appliance from the ice maker built into a refrigerator door. They have their own compressor, their own water path and their own harvest mechanism, and they are designed to run continuously rather than in the background. In South Florida that means they run almost every hour of the year, on water that is hard enough to change how they behave within months.
- A machine in its own right, not a refrigerator part
- Mineral buildup is the common ending here
- Which stage the cycle stops at is the diagnosis
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Built-in · Kenmore and Kenmore Elite Dishwashers
Built-in dishwashers. 665 is the number on most of the plates we see and it is Whirlpool-built; 587 is Frigidaire and 630 is Bosch, and all three turn up in South Florida kitchens. Whirlpool publishes a real code scheme for these, which makes a dishwasher one of the more readable appliances on this badge — provided you read the code against the right builder's table.
- 665 is Whirlpool, 587 is Frigidaire, 630 is Bosch
- Drainage and wash performance are most of the calls
- The code on the display is Whirlpool's code
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Top-load and front-load · 110 and 796 Washers
Laundry is where the decode matters most, because a Kenmore washer can be a Whirlpool, an an LG, and those are two genuinely different machines. A 110 and a 796 do not share a pump, a control board, a diagnostic sequence or a code table, and they do not fail the same way. The model number is not a formality on this appliance — it is the difference between the right visit and the wrong one.
- 110 is Whirlpool-built, 796 is LG-built
- Drain, spin and leaks are most of what we see
- Two washers under one badge, and two code tables
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Electric and gas · 110, 796 and 417 Dryers
Electric and gas dryers built by Whirlpool, LG and Frigidaire under the badge. On this appliance the single most useful thing we can tell you is that a large share of no-heat and long-cycle calls are the vent rather than the dryer — and in South Florida houses the vent runs are longer, flatter and wetter than the ones these machines were designed around.
- 110 is Whirlpool-built, 796 is LG-built, 417 is Frigidaire-built
- The vent causes more of these calls than any part does
- Gas and electric fail in different places
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Freestanding and slide-in · gas and electric Ranges
Freestanding and slide-in ranges, gas and electric. 790 is the number we see most and it is Frigidaire-built; 362 turns up on GE-built ranges and 911 on another range family altogether. A range is the appliance a household notices fastest when it stops, and it is also the one where the difference between a sensor, an element and a control board is the difference between a modest repair and a conversation about replacing it.
- 790 is Frigidaire, 362 is GE, 911 is a range prefix too
- Oven sensor and bake element are most of the calls
- Gas surface problems are usually the igniter, not the valve
If it is not on this list
Publishing a job takes volume — repairing one does not
What earned a page here is what we are asked for often enough to write about properly. Plenty of work never reaches that threshold and is still perfectly ordinary for us.
Give us three digits from the plate and a description of the behavior, and we will say what it commonly proves to be. Those digits identify the company that built the machine, which is where everything on this site begins.
Before you call
Questions we are asked about the work
Do you charge for the diagnostic?
Yes — it begins at $95 and is credited against the repair if you proceed. What you are paying for is somebody establishing the answer, which is the difficult part of the job.
Why do you need the model number before anything else?
Because on this badge it is the diagnosis rather than paperwork. A 110 washer is a Whirlpool and a 796 is an LG, and they do not share a pump, a control, a parts catalog or a code table. Arriving without the number means working on two different machines at once.
Do you work on Kenmore Elite and Kenmore Pro as well?
Yes. Those are trim and feature levels applied across whichever manufacturer built the unit rather than engineering families — an Elite refrigerator may be LG-built and an Elite range Frigidaire-built. The line name tells you very little; the first three digits tell you everything.
Do you use original parts?
We fit OEM parts wherever the catalog still carries them, and we tell you outright when what is going in is an equivalent. Independent appliance repair company. Not affiliated with, authorized by, or endorsed by any manufacturer. The guarantee covers the work we performed.
In more detail
What Kenmore repair actually involves in Miami
One badge, seven manufacturers
Kenmore is a house brand. Sears commissioned appliances from other companies and put its own name on them, and that practice is still readable on every rating plate: the three digits before the period identify the manufacturer. Two refrigerators that look identical from the front can have different evaporator layouts, different defrost strategies, different control boards and entirely separate parts catalogs.
Why that makes the list on this page look the way it does
Because a job is a job whoever built the appliance, but the sequence inside it is not. A drain repair on a washer is the same list of components in a different order depending on the maker, and the machine will tell you a different amount about it along the way. So the jobs are listed as jobs, and each page says what changes with the builder.
What South Florida adds
Three things, on every appliance in the catalog. Humidity, which decides how hard a defrost circuit works and how soon a door seal matters. Water hard enough to scale a dishwasher heater and an ice machine well inside the intervals the manuals assume. And vent runs in single-story houses that are long, flat and carrying damp air, which is why dryer work is its own line here rather than an afterthought.
What we will not do
Quote a firm price before we have seen the appliance. The same complaint on the same machine can be a switch or a control board, and those are not the same money. Every figure here is a starting point, and the exact cost is confirmed after the on-site diagnostic and agreed with you before anything is opened.
Three digits, and a sentence about the behavior.
Add a photo of whatever the display is showing. That is usually enough for us to name a likely cause and its price band over the phone.
This article is based on:
- Official manufacturer documentation
- Internal repair procedures
- Technician repair history
- Company quality standards